Hey, if you’re anything like me, your fishing jacket is basically your second skin on the water. It’s the thing that’s fended off sudden rain squalls, rubbed shoulders with slimy fish guts, and held up when you tripped over a rock at the ramp—all while keeping you comfortable through 8-hour days chasing bass or bluefin. But here’s the thing: I run a fishing jacket brand (I won’t bore you with the name, since I’ll tell you how to connect later) and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen guys toss their wading or angling jacket into the washing machine on a high heat cycle, only to watch it shrink, fray, or lose that waterproof coating we worked so hard to perfect. That’s a rookie move that wastes money and ruins gear that’s made for getting you on the water, not sitting in a closet. Fishing Jacket
Today I’m breaking down exactly how to clean a fishing jacket the right way—no fancy fancy products, no guesswork, just science-backed steps that keep your jacket working, not falling apart. I’ve tested every single one of these on our own jackets, so trust me when I say this works way better than Googling “how to clean fishing jacket” and taking the first result.
First, let’s talk about why regular laundry detergent is your jacket’s enemy. Most household detergents have harsh enzymes and optical brighteners that eat away at the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating. That’s the stuff that makes water bead up and roll off, right? If you wash with regular detergent, after a few washes that coating is gone, your jacket gets soaked when it rains, and then you’re stuck wearing a damp, heavy thing all day. Also, if you just toss it in the wash without pre-treating, you’re basically scrubbing fish scales and mud into the fabric, which will set and be way harder to get out later.
So let’s start with pre-wash prep—this is the most important step most people skip. Wait until you get home, don’t let the grime set in. If you’re lucky, rinse it off right there with a hose (cold water, not hot—hot water cooks the stains) before you even take it off. For really tough spots: fish slime, blood, that random rust stain from a old cleat? Grab a soft-bristled brush (an old toothbrush works, no steel wool—you’ll scratch the fabric) and a little bit of dish soap. Not that lemon-scented stuff, the plain blue Dawn works best. Dab a tiny bit on the spot, scrub gently in a circular motion, and let it sit for 5 minutes. Don’t pour dish soap all over the jacket—this is for spot-cleaning only. If you have a stain on the inside, like mud from wading, flip the jacket inside out and dab that side. Also, check all the pockets—you’d be shocked how many people leave a half-eaten granola bar or a whole pack of hooks in there. Hooks will tear the lining, and granola gets all mushy and gross in the wash. Zip all zippers (obviously, but velcro is another thing—zip velcro pockets closed! If you leave velcro open, it will snag the fabric in the wash, leaving tiny holes you won’t notice until you’re on the water.)
Now, the actual wash cycle. This is where people mess up big time. First, never use a washing machine’s regular cycle. That cycle has agitation that’s way too harsh, and it uses too much detergent. You want the delicate or gentle cycle, and cold water. Hot water is bad for two reasons: it shrinks synthetic fabrics (most fishing jackets are polyester or nylon, which shrink way more than cotton) and it breaks down the DWR. As for detergent—skip the Tide, skip the Pods. You need a technical wash detergent, like Nikwax Tech Wash or Grangers Performance Wash. These are made specifically for outdoor gear with waterproof coatings. They don’t have the harsh stuff, so they clean the fabric without eating away at that DWR. If you don’t have technical detergent, you can use a tiny amount of mild, fragrance-free laundry detergent—like Woolite—but only if you have nothing else. A little goes a long way, way less than you’d use for a load of towels. You don’t want suds building up in the jacket’s seams, because that will mess with the waterproofing.
Wait—can you put multiple jackets in the wash? Yeah, if they’re similar fabrics. Don’t mix your fishing jacket with your workout gear, though—synthetic workout clothes have their own coatings, and they might leave lint or residue on your jacket. Keep it to just fishing gear or other waterproof outerwear.
Now, the dryer thing. Most people dry their jacket on high heat, which is a huge no-no. High heat melts the DWR coating, and it can shrink the fabric even if you used cold water. If you can, hang it up to air dry in a cool, shaded place. Direct sunlight is also bad—it fades the fabric over time, especially if it’s that nice navy or forest green that doesn’t need to show dirt. If you have to use a dryer—like if you’re in a hurry for a trip—use the lowest heat setting, and take it out while it’s still a little damp. Wait, no—actually, here’s a pro tip from our in-house lab: if you want to reactivate the DWR coating (if it’s starting to bead water slower), you can toss it in the dryer on low heat for 10-15 minutes once it’s almost dry. The heat will help the DWR molecules re-bond to the fabric. But don’t leave it in longer than that, or you’ll ruin it. Also—never iron your fishing jacket. The high heat will melt the fabric and the DWR, and no one wants a melted jacket.
Wait, what if your jacket has Gore-Tex or another membrane? Same rules apply! I get so many questions about Gore-Tex jackets—people think they need special treatment, but it’s basically the same as the DWR rule. Don’t use harsh detergents, don’t dry on high heat, pre-treat spots. The membrane is there to keep water out and let sweat in, and using the wrong detergent will clog the tiny pores, making it not breathable anymore. That’s the worst—you’re sweating so bad on the inside you have to take it off, even if it’s raining.
Now, common mistakes I see all the time: 1) Washing after every single use. No, you don’t need to wash it after a half-day trip where you only got a little damp. If it’s just a little dusty or a tiny bit of sweat, hang it up to air out. Washing too often is just wearing out the DWR faster. 2) Using bleach or stain removers. Bleach will turn your jacket yellow and destroy the waterproof coating, period. Skip that. 3) Not re-applying DWR when it stops beading. Even if you wash it right, after 10-15 washes the DWR will wear off, especially if you’re fishing in saltwater. Salt is super harsh on fabrics. When that happens, you can get a DWR spray-in or wash-in treatment. Nikwax TX.Direct is good, Grangers has one too. Follow the instructions—usually, you wash the jacket first, then apply the treatment in the wash, or spray it on and let it dry. That will bring back that water-beading effect, so you don’t get soaked mid-fight.
Wait, saltwater specifically—how to clean a fishing jacket that’s been in saltwater? Salt is a big deal because if you leave it on the fabric, it will break down the fibers over time and make the DWR stop working. So after any saltwater trip, rinse it off right away with fresh cold water. Don’t let it dry with salt on it. If you have salt stains, pre-treat them with that dish soap trick, then wash as normal. We had a customer once who sent us a jacket that he’d used for saltwater fishing for 2 years, never rinsed it, and it basically turned into a heavy rag that absorbed water. We got it cleaned up for him, but he had to re-apply the DWR twice after that. So don’t skip the rinse step after saltwater.
What about stubborn fish oil stains? Oh man, fish oil is the worst. It’s greasy, it sets fast. If you get fish oil on your jacket, don’t wait. As soon as you’re done fishing, dab it with a paper towel to get as much excess oil off as you can, then pre-treat it with the dish soap, scrub gently, and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then wash it as normal with technical detergent. If you wait until the next day, that oil will be almost impossible to get out. I’ve tested this—we got a fresh jacket with fish oil on it, and after that pre-treatment, it came out 99% clean. If you don’t treat it, you’ll have a grease spot forever.
Now, storing your jacket when you’re not using it. Don’t stuff it in a tight closet or a gear bag for months on end. Hang it up on a wide hanger, not a wire hanger (wire hanger will leave a bump in the shoulder). Keep it in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight. If you have to put it in a bag, make sure it’s fully dry first—mold and mildew will grow if it’s damp, and that will ruin the fabric and the DWR. Also, don’t store it near anything sharp—like fishing hooks or pliers—you don’t want a tear that you’ll miss until you’re on the water.
Wait, let’s test this with a real example, just to make sure it works. Last month, one of our team members took a jacket out to the Gulf for a redfish tournament. He got splashed with saltwater, got a blood stain on the sleeve, and the velcro on the chest pocket snagged a little mud. He came home, hosed it down with cold water, pre-treated the blood spot with Dawn, closed all velcro and zippers, put it on delicate cycle with Nikwax Tech Wash, air-dried it, and then tossed it on low heat for 10 minutes to reactivate the DWR. We used that jacket for another tournament a week later, and it kept the rain and spray out perfectly. No stains, no shrinking, no issues. That’s exactly what we recommend.
Now, I know a lot of anglers are on a budget, and technical detergent can be a little pricey. Is there a cheaper alternative? Honestly, if you’re not dealing with super tough stains, you can use a mild, biodegradable laundry detergent that’s free of enzymes and brighteners. Avoid anything with “stain fighting” on the label—those enzymes are what break down the DWR. I’ve used Seventh Generation before for a light wash, and it worked okay, just don’t use too much. The key is no harsh additives.
Another thing: if your jacket has mesh liners or fleece liners (some of our jackets have removable liners), take the liner out before washing. You want to wash the outer shell separately from the liner, because liners can hold a lot of dirt and lint, which will transfer to the shell. For fleece liners, use cold water and gentle cycle too, and air dry—fleece shrinks if you dry it on high.
At the end of the day, your fishing jacket is an investment. We design our jackets to last for years, but only if you take care of them. Tossing them in a hot wash with Tide every month is going to cut their lifespan in half, and that means you’ll have to replace them more often, which costs you more money in the long run.
If you’re looking to grab a new fishing jacket (or restock for your crew) and want to know more about our care tips, or if you have questions specific to a jacket you already have, just reach out to our team—we’re here to help. We know anglers don’t have time for gear that doesn’t work, so we make jackets that hold up, and we make it easy to keep them working.
Now, quick recap so you don’t forget anything:
- Pre-treat stains right away with a soft brush and mild dish soap, close all velcro/zippers, empty pockets.
- Wash on cold, delicate cycle with technical detergent (no regular laundry stuff).
- Hang dry—low heat for 10 minutes max only if you’re in a hurry, no high heat.
- Re-apply DWR when water stops beading.
- Rinse after saltwater, store in a dry, cool place.
That’s it. No fancy steps, no complicated products, just what works. I’ve been fishing for 15 years, and I’ve ruined more jackets than I can count by not following these steps back in the day. Now that I run a jacket brand, I make sure everyone who buys from us knows how to keep their gear working, because the last thing I want is someone coming to me saying their new jacket fell apart after one trip.
If you’re ready to order, or want to chat about wholesale for a shop or guide service, just hit us up. We’re stoked to get you set up with jackets that will keep you on the water, not in the laundry room.
Motorcycle Rain Jacket and Pants References:
- Outdoor Industry Association. (2021). Care and Maintenance of Waterproof Breathable Outerwear.
- Nikwax. (2022). Technical Guide to Washing and Restoring DWR Coating.
- Grangers. (2023). Saltwater Gear Care Best Practices.
- American Sportfishing Association. (2020). Angler Gear Maintenance Guide.
Huizhou Shengbida Technology Co., Ltd.
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Address: No.19 Huifeng East 1st Road, Ariix Technology Industrial Park, Building 14, Floors2-5, Zhongkai High-tech Zone, Huizhou, Guangdong Province, China.
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