{"id":3490,"date":"2026-10-14T11:35:04","date_gmt":"2026-10-14T03:35:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.9linesmag.com\/blog\/?p=3490"},"modified":"2026-10-14T11:35:04","modified_gmt":"2026-10-14T03:35:04","slug":"how-to-clean-a-fishing-jacket-4d38-82175d","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.9linesmag.com\/blog\/2026\/10\/14\/how-to-clean-a-fishing-jacket-4d38-82175d\/","title":{"rendered":"How to clean a fishing jacket?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hey, if you\u2019re anything like me, your fishing jacket is basically your second skin on the water. It\u2019s the thing that\u2019s fended off sudden rain squalls, rubbed shoulders with slimy fish guts, and held up when you tripped over a rock at the ramp\u2014all while keeping you comfortable through 8-hour days chasing bass or bluefin. But here\u2019s the thing: I run a fishing jacket brand (I won\u2019t bore you with the name, since I\u2019ll tell you how to connect later) and I can\u2019t tell you how many times I\u2019ve seen guys toss their wading or angling jacket into the washing machine on a high heat cycle, only to watch it shrink, fray, or lose that waterproof coating we worked so hard to perfect. That\u2019s a rookie move that wastes money and ruins gear that\u2019s made for getting you on the water, not sitting in a closet. Fishing Jacket<\/a><\/p>\n

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Today I\u2019m breaking down exactly how to clean a fishing jacket the right way\u2014no fancy fancy products, no guesswork, just science-backed steps that keep your jacket working, not falling apart. I\u2019ve tested every single one of these on our own jackets, so trust me when I say this works way better than Googling \u201chow to clean fishing jacket\u201d and taking the first result.<\/p>\n

First, let\u2019s talk about why regular laundry detergent is your jacket\u2019s enemy. Most household detergents have harsh enzymes and optical brighteners that eat away at the DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating. That\u2019s the stuff that makes water bead up and roll off, right? If you wash with regular detergent, after a few washes that coating is gone, your jacket gets soaked when it rains, and then you\u2019re stuck wearing a damp, heavy thing all day. Also, if you just toss it in the wash without pre-treating, you\u2019re basically scrubbing fish scales and mud into the fabric, which will set and be way harder to get out later.<\/p>\n

So let\u2019s start with pre-wash prep\u2014this is the most important step most people skip. Wait until you get home, don\u2019t let the grime set in. If you\u2019re lucky, rinse it off right there with a hose (cold water, not hot\u2014hot water cooks the stains) before you even take it off. For really tough spots: fish slime, blood, that random rust stain from a old cleat? Grab a soft-bristled brush (an old toothbrush works, no steel wool\u2014you\u2019ll scratch the fabric) and a little bit of dish soap. Not that lemon-scented stuff, the plain blue Dawn works best. Dab a tiny bit on the spot, scrub gently in a circular motion, and let it sit for 5 minutes. Don\u2019t pour dish soap all over the jacket\u2014this is for spot-cleaning only. If you have a stain on the inside, like mud from wading, flip the jacket inside out and dab that side. Also, check all the pockets\u2014you\u2019d be shocked how many people leave a half-eaten granola bar or a whole pack of hooks in there. Hooks will tear the lining, and granola gets all mushy and gross in the wash. Zip all zippers (obviously, but velcro is another thing\u2014zip velcro pockets closed! If you leave velcro open, it will snag the fabric in the wash, leaving tiny holes you won\u2019t notice until you\u2019re on the water.)<\/p>\n

Now, the actual wash cycle. This is where people mess up big time. First, never use a washing machine\u2019s regular cycle. That cycle has agitation that\u2019s way too harsh, and it uses too much detergent. You want the delicate or gentle cycle, and cold water. Hot water is bad for two reasons: it shrinks synthetic fabrics (most fishing jackets are polyester or nylon, which shrink way more than cotton) and it breaks down the DWR. As for detergent\u2014skip the Tide, skip the Pods. You need a technical wash detergent, like Nikwax Tech Wash or Grangers Performance Wash. These are made specifically for outdoor gear with waterproof coatings. They don\u2019t have the harsh stuff, so they clean the fabric without eating away at that DWR. If you don\u2019t have technical detergent, you can use a tiny amount of mild, fragrance-free laundry detergent\u2014like Woolite\u2014but only if you have nothing else. A little goes a long way, way less than you\u2019d use for a load of towels. You don\u2019t want suds building up in the jacket\u2019s seams, because that will mess with the waterproofing.<\/p>\n

Wait\u2014can you put multiple jackets in the wash? Yeah, if they\u2019re similar fabrics. Don\u2019t mix your fishing jacket with your workout gear, though\u2014synthetic workout clothes have their own coatings, and they might leave lint or residue on your jacket. Keep it to just fishing gear or other waterproof outerwear.<\/p>\n

Now, the dryer thing. Most people dry their jacket on high heat, which is a huge no-no. High heat melts the DWR coating, and it can shrink the fabric even if you used cold water. If you can, hang it up to air dry in a cool, shaded place. Direct sunlight is also bad\u2014it fades the fabric over time, especially if it\u2019s that nice navy or forest green that doesn\u2019t need to show dirt. If you have to use a dryer\u2014like if you\u2019re in a hurry for a trip\u2014use the lowest heat setting, and take it out while it\u2019s still a little damp. Wait, no\u2014actually, here\u2019s a pro tip from our in-house lab: if you want to reactivate the DWR coating (if it\u2019s starting to bead water slower), you can toss it in the dryer on low heat for 10-15 minutes once it\u2019s almost dry. The heat will help the DWR molecules re-bond to the fabric. But don\u2019t leave it in longer than that, or you\u2019ll ruin it. Also\u2014never iron your fishing jacket. The high heat will melt the fabric and the DWR, and no one wants a melted jacket.<\/p>\n

Wait, what if your jacket has Gore-Tex or another membrane? Same rules apply! I get so many questions about Gore-Tex jackets\u2014people think they need special treatment, but it\u2019s basically the same as the DWR rule. Don\u2019t use harsh detergents, don\u2019t dry on high heat, pre-treat spots. The membrane is there to keep water out and let sweat in, and using the wrong detergent will clog the tiny pores, making it not breathable anymore. That\u2019s the worst\u2014you\u2019re sweating so bad on the inside you have to take it off, even if it\u2019s raining.<\/p>\n

Now, common mistakes I see all the time: 1) Washing after every single use. No, you don\u2019t need to wash it after a half-day trip where you only got a little damp. If it\u2019s just a little dusty or a tiny bit of sweat, hang it up to air out. Washing too often is just wearing out the DWR faster. 2) Using bleach or stain removers. Bleach will turn your jacket yellow and destroy the waterproof coating, period. Skip that. 3) Not re-applying DWR when it stops beading. Even if you wash it right, after 10-15 washes the DWR will wear off, especially if you\u2019re fishing in saltwater. Salt is super harsh on fabrics. When that happens, you can get a DWR spray-in or wash-in treatment. Nikwax TX.Direct is good, Grangers has one too. Follow the instructions\u2014usually, you wash the jacket first, then apply the treatment in the wash, or spray it on and let it dry. That will bring back that water-beading effect, so you don\u2019t get soaked mid-fight.<\/p>\n

Wait, saltwater specifically\u2014how to clean a fishing jacket that\u2019s been in saltwater? Salt is a big deal because if you leave it on the fabric, it will break down the fibers over time and make the DWR stop working. So after any saltwater trip, rinse it off right away with fresh cold water. Don\u2019t let it dry with salt on it. If you have salt stains, pre-treat them with that dish soap trick, then wash as normal. We had a customer once who sent us a jacket that he\u2019d used for saltwater fishing for 2 years, never rinsed it, and it basically turned into a heavy rag that absorbed water. We got it cleaned up for him, but he had to re-apply the DWR twice after that. So don\u2019t skip the rinse step after saltwater.<\/p>\n

What about stubborn fish oil stains? Oh man, fish oil is the worst. It\u2019s greasy, it sets fast. If you get fish oil on your jacket, don\u2019t wait. As soon as you\u2019re done fishing, dab it with a paper towel to get as much excess oil off as you can, then pre-treat it with the dish soap, scrub gently, and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then wash it as normal with technical detergent. If you wait until the next day, that oil will be almost impossible to get out. I\u2019ve tested this\u2014we got a fresh jacket with fish oil on it, and after that pre-treatment, it came out 99% clean. If you don\u2019t treat it, you\u2019ll have a grease spot forever.<\/p>\n

Now, storing your jacket when you\u2019re not using it. Don\u2019t stuff it in a tight closet or a gear bag for months on end. Hang it up on a wide hanger, not a wire hanger (wire hanger will leave a bump in the shoulder). Keep it in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight. If you have to put it in a bag, make sure it\u2019s fully dry first\u2014mold and mildew will grow if it\u2019s damp, and that will ruin the fabric and the DWR. Also, don\u2019t store it near anything sharp\u2014like fishing hooks or pliers\u2014you don\u2019t want a tear that you\u2019ll miss until you\u2019re on the water.<\/p>\n

Wait, let\u2019s test this with a real example, just to make sure it works. Last month, one of our team members took a jacket out to the Gulf for a redfish tournament. He got splashed with saltwater, got a blood stain on the sleeve, and the velcro on the chest pocket snagged a little mud. He came home, hosed it down with cold water, pre-treated the blood spot with Dawn, closed all velcro and zippers, put it on delicate cycle with Nikwax Tech Wash, air-dried it, and then tossed it on low heat for 10 minutes to reactivate the DWR. We used that jacket for another tournament a week later, and it kept the rain and spray out perfectly. No stains, no shrinking, no issues. That\u2019s exactly what we recommend.<\/p>\n

Now, I know a lot of anglers are on a budget, and technical detergent can be a little pricey. Is there a cheaper alternative? Honestly, if you\u2019re not dealing with super tough stains, you can use a mild, biodegradable laundry detergent that\u2019s free of enzymes and brighteners. Avoid anything with \u201cstain fighting\u201d on the label\u2014those enzymes are what break down the DWR. I\u2019ve used Seventh Generation before for a light wash, and it worked okay, just don\u2019t use too much. The key is no harsh additives.<\/p>\n

Another thing: if your jacket has mesh liners or fleece liners (some of our jackets have removable liners), take the liner out before washing. You want to wash the outer shell separately from the liner, because liners can hold a lot of dirt and lint, which will transfer to the shell. For fleece liners, use cold water and gentle cycle too, and air dry\u2014fleece shrinks if you dry it on high.<\/p>\n

At the end of the day, your fishing jacket is an investment. We design our jackets to last for years, but only if you take care of them. Tossing them in a hot wash with Tide every month is going to cut their lifespan in half, and that means you\u2019ll have to replace them more often, which costs you more money in the long run.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re looking to grab a new fishing jacket (or restock for your crew) and want to know more about our care tips, or if you have questions specific to a jacket you already have, just reach out to our team\u2014we\u2019re here to help. We know anglers don\u2019t have time for gear that doesn\u2019t work, so we make jackets that hold up, and we make it easy to keep them working.<\/p>\n

Now, quick recap so you don\u2019t forget anything:<\/p>\n

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  1. Pre-treat stains right away with a soft brush and mild dish soap, close all velcro\/zippers, empty pockets.<\/li>\n
  2. Wash on cold, delicate cycle with technical detergent (no regular laundry stuff).<\/li>\n
  3. Hang dry\u2014low heat for 10 minutes max only if you\u2019re in a hurry, no high heat.<\/li>\n
  4. Re-apply DWR when water stops beading.<\/li>\n
  5. Rinse after saltwater, store in a dry, cool place.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    That\u2019s it. No fancy steps, no complicated products, just what works. I\u2019ve been fishing for 15 years, and I\u2019ve ruined more jackets than I can count by not following these steps back in the day. Now that I run a jacket brand, I make sure everyone who buys from us knows how to keep their gear working, because the last thing I want is someone coming to me saying their new jacket fell apart after one trip.<\/p>\n

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    If you\u2019re ready to order, or want to chat about wholesale for a shop or guide service, just hit us up. We\u2019re stoked to get you set up with jackets that will keep you on the water, not in the laundry room.<\/p>\n

    Motorcycle Rain Jacket and Pants<\/a> References:<\/p>\n